Showing posts with label fitted diaper. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fitted diaper. Show all posts

Sunday, October 7, 2012

Online Free Downloads

* If you are new to my diaper-sewing blog, please start HERE.  My pattern templates were not designed to be used with rolled/zig-zagged elastic or the tack&turn cased elastic method.

I now have a YouTube channel as well: ArfyMakes YouTube channel
I do live-streaming on Wednesdays at 2pm Pacific time, and you can make requests for what I'll sew, or I can help you trouble-shoot your own projects.

My diaper pattern templates are all on google docs.
DO NOT allow your print settings to "scale to fit!"
If there is an option of choosing a printed scale percentage, then just type 100%.

I have also posted Projector-friendly PDFs for download as well.

Templates : Blog Posts and/or Video tutorials showing them sewn-up


One-Size PUL-outer Diapers (Pockets, AI2s, AIOs)





Newborn PUL-outer Diapers (Pockets, AI2s, AIOs)


Universal NB Squaretab (approx. 6-11lbs)



Sized PUL-outer Diapers (Pockets, AI2s, AIOs)

Sized Squaretab Diaper Templates  X-SmallSmallMediumLargeX-Large :  pocket AIO pictorial


Fitted Diapers + (require a moisture-barrier cover)


M-L Fitted : (14-30lbs) post

NB/S Fitted : (6-14lbs depending on materials used) post, VIDEO

NB/S Serged Fitted : (6-14lbs depending on materials used) pictorial, VIDEO





PUL Diaper Covers


XL FOE Cover (requested)

NB/S FOE Cover : originalupdated (+now w/ guides for double gussets by request)



Miscellaneous

Saturday, March 10, 2012

Non-Serged Detail-Oriented Prefitted

This updated VIDEO tutorial might be easier and give a cleaner result.

Now a beautiful prefitted for those of you not blessed with sergers!
Cut out your fitted shape making sure there is enough room around the middle seam for double your elastic casing width. Leave the serging on the ends intact! Cut out the excess fabric from one side around the leg casing. Fold the outer 2 and 2 layers inward about 3/8" and pin in place leaving about 2" open at the top/back of each side. Close up of the area that will be left open. Sew down with an even straight stitch about 1/8" from the edge or closer. Use your seam ripper to pop the top 3-4 stitches at the back holding down the middle layering on your prefold. On the side without the exposed fold showing, about 1" to each side of those middle layers, cut down about 3/8"-1/2" through only the top two layers. I used a safety pin here to show the slit fabric. Now, sew a straight seam from a little beyond that slit and about 1/2" down from the edge of the serging to just past the other slit at the back to make your back elastic casing. Sew your leg casings the same way. Close-up showing the top of one leg elastic casing. Use a safety pin to feed the elastic through your small slits through your back elastic casing. Tack down, remove the pin, and then tuck in the exposed end of the elastic. Use a short length and wide width zig-zag stitch to close up the fabric and sew down the first side of the back elastic completely. Stretch your elastic to your desired tension and set in place with your pin. Cut your elastic about 1/2" longer than you need and tuck into the opening to conceal the end. Zig-zag down the other end like the first and remove your safety pin. Run the leg elastics the same way. You can sew them down normally though since there was no hole cut in the fabric. Then trim the elastics and sew up the little bit of opening at the top/back of each side by folding the fabric in again and top-stitching close to the edge. It makes for a very clean-looking finish. The front isn't quite as pretty unless you really want to mess with tucking around sharper corners. I just finish those edges by folding the edges in a little bit and zig-zagging over the raw edges to fray-stop. It is fast and secure though. :) Now here are your cutout extra fabric scraps laid over each other and trimmed down a little. Trim them down to about 4-4.5" wide and even them up a bit. Sew around the most of the outside a good 1/4" in. Invert through the end you left unsewn: Pin in that end and sew/top-stitch all around the outside of the soaker/doubler.
Here is your finished non-serged prefitted. :)
Soaker can be laid-in or stitched down on the end(s). Front. Rear-view showing the back elastic.

Detail-Oriented Prefitted

So, a tutorial my friend Eliana did this week inspired me to do this "detail-oriented" prefitted photo tutorial. She is one of those insane attention to detail seamstresses. I don't think most people would WANT to spend this kind of time and effort into a PREFITTED... but maybe some of you are like her and enjoy "making a mountain out of a mole-hill." ;)

First, here is my NB square-tab template laid over a cottonbabies.com infant size prefold. Looks good to me! Infant prefolds make perfect newborn prefitted diapers once they shrink up!

All cut out to shape. Save the cut-out fabric for your lay-in (or sew-in) doubler/soaker.


Cut off just the serged top and bottom edges.


See those excess lengths of the prefold fabric on one side...


Trim them down around where your elastic casings will be.

Now, here comes the attention to detail part. Around what will be the leg casings, fold in/down about 3/8" of the top 2 layers and in/up the bottom two layers the same. Pin together cleanly.

View of one whole side done.

Sew with a straight stitch right over those pins about 1/8" from the edge (as close as you can cleanly get without missing any fabric layers really). Do the same to the other side.

Now here are your cutout extra fabric scraps laid over each other and trimmed down a little:


Trim them down to about 4-4.5" wide and even them up a bit.


Sew around the most of the outside a good 1/4" in:


Invert through the end you left unsewn:


Pin in that end and sew/top-stitch all around the outside of the soaker/doubler.

Sew the side elastic casing channels for the diaper body as shown in the template (the back/top will come later):
Feed your elastic through the casings from the top and bottom openings and tack-stretch-tack-cut in place:

Sew your back/top casing channel and do the same.

Serge across the top and around the bottom. Then feed your tails back through for a couple inches and trim. Here is your neat and tidy (but still plain) prefitted. I hope Eliana is proud. ;)

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

T&T Pocket Fitted Diaper

I ran out of black thread... BUT, it makes it easier for you to see the stitching this way. ;)

To follow up the last tutorial, I decided to do turned and top-stitched version of the same diaper. This one has about half the absorbency though and would rely more on inserts.
Cut your fabric. I am using recycled pajama pant fabric and cotton terry (towel fabric) for this one's absorbent layers.
I sewed in an extra terry layer for the wet-zone.
Sew on the front "loops" velcro strip through these two fabric layers.
Lay over your inner fabric (I am using black Alova suedecloth again). This time have your outer print facing the soft side of the suedecloth. Pin or clip.
Sew or serge around all of the outside except about 7" in the middle of the back.
Turn right-side-out.
Sew your leg elastic casing channels.
Thread, tack, stretch, tack, and trim your elastic.
Sew the edge down on the inner fabric to make the pocket opening. Then sew your elastic casing channels for the back elastic (leave enough open on the sides to thread the elastic).
Thread, tack, stretch, tack, and trim your back elastic. Then sew up the edges of the back fabric there and do your top-stitching.
Sew on your velcro tabs and laundry tabs.
Here it is stuffed with a Bumgenius one-size microfiber insert plus a cotton/hemp insert.
That would be one fluffy butt! However, it is a good overnight solution for heavy-wetters. :)